Never been surfing before? Here are some tips & tricks how to survive your first time on the waves!
No, it doesn’t come naturally
My first time surfing was in Bali, more specific in Kuta. Kuta is a dream beach with white sand, an ocean so blue and delicious coconuts. This beach has the most amazing waves and is well-known by surfers around the globe. I was sitting on the beach watching all the great surfers taking the biggest waves and I couldn’t help myself. I rented a surfboard not even knowing how to hold it and I ran towards the sea, ready to try. So let me give you a tip.
TIP NR. 1 : Take at least 1 surfing class before you dive in!
Because it’s really not that easy! I followed the surfers towards a big wave, thinking I could make it but I arrived way too late and the wave took me back to the beach. The power of mother nature is enormous I was under for 10 seconds but it when you’re drowning it feels like minutes. A smart person would call it a day and try another time but I guess I’m not that clever because I drowned 4 times that day. The last time my lungs were filled with water and I thought I would never breath again. I got a trauma of surfing and now 2 years later I’m still afraid of big waves even though I know I can handle them.