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Surfing in Bali

Never been surfing before? Here are some tips & tricks how to survive your first time on the waves!

No, it doesn’t come naturally

My first time surfing was in Bali, more specific in Kuta. Kuta is a dream beach with white sand, an ocean so blue and delicious coconuts. This beach has the most amazing waves and is well-known by surfers around the globe. I was sitting on the beach watching all the great surfers taking the biggest waves and I couldn’t help myself. I rented a surfboard not even knowing how to hold it and I ran towards the sea, ready to try. So let me give you a tip.

TIP NR. 1 : Take at least 1 surfing class before you dive in!

Because it’s really not that easy! I followed the surfers towards a big wave, thinking I could make it but I arrived way too late and the wave took me back to the beach. The power of mother nature is enormous I was under for 10 seconds but it when you’re drowning it feels like minutes. A smart person would call it a day and try another time but I guess I’m not that clever because I drowned 4 times that day. The last time my lungs were filled with water and I thought I would never breath again. I got a trauma of surfing and now 2 years later I’m still afraid of big waves even though I know I can handle them.

TIP NR. 2: When you hit a wave try to dive underneath it, you can also do this when you’re just swimming and don’t want to be dragged back to the beach.

I went for a swim in Bali when it was raining and I dove underneath the waves to go a little further but because of the bad weather there were too many to dive under. I couldn’t catch my breath between waves and had to return to the beach before drowning again. I went to Bali in September, it is still very sunny but around 4 P.M. it starts raining until 7 P.M. followed by a warm night.

TIP NR. 3: Don’t go swimming when it rains.

TIP NR.3 : If you feel like you are falling try to wipe out.

This means jumping away from the board towards the ocean. Let the wave pass you by and make sure to feel with your hands what’s above you when you swim upwards to avoid getting hit by the board or other surfers.

TIP NR. 4: When you’re a beginner don’t try to take the big waves because you’ll disturb the experienced surfers.

It’s annoying for them if you try to catch the same waves because you will not turn in the same way they do. Try the little waves first, practise makes perfect. I know because I’m the annoying beginner :D and my boyfriend is the one who has to wipe out because I’m in his wave, so try to respect everyone especially when you go surfing on touristic places in summer. It can be really crowded and you can easily hurt someone.

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